Day 14 A Day in Ancient Rome
Buon giorno amici! Today we are taking a bus to Rome, and just for a little while we will leave our dear Richard behind. He will join us in Rome later on today. Meanwhile a roar of thunder rumbled down the streets once more as 28 travelers rolled their luggage along to the new bus. It was a smaller bus, white with confetti colors splashed along the sides. The bus driver was not as friendly as our Richard. He tossed our bags into the bus, we climbed aboard and were off on our 4 hour ride to Rome. Of course we had a stop after two hours, but other than that it was a pretty typical ride. Gorgeous countryside, overhead commentary. It was lovely. I was sitting toward the front of the bus and was concerned that this new driver was apparently a part time secretary since he was constantly on his phone while driving the bus. Yikes!
Finally we did arrive in Rome. It was much bigger than I had imagined. We were lucky enough to get a scenic drive through the heart of Rome on our way in. It was lovely and exciting as we caught glimpses of the Colosseum, and the Victor Emmanuel II Monument. Our drop off point was the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary. This is a square surrounded by roads that has been dubbed a cat sanctuary. They live among the ruins of ancient Rome that rest on the square. The words that stuck out in my mind were "Argentina" and "Place of the cats" and/or "Cat Sanctuary". We had to get off the bus quickly due to the surrounding traffic. We made sure we had everything before the bus driver took off and soon disappeared down the street. So to get to our hotel we had to drag our luggage down cobblestone streets with large gaps between the bricks. We spotted some luggage wheels that were, regrettably, no longer attached to the luggage so we proceeded with caution. We finally located the hotel and also learned that many of us would be staying in a nearby building not attached to this one. We went back out to the street then so that we could locate this other building. The building itself was quite plain and not entirely easy to distinguish from the others on the street. Our saving grace was a bakery which was located right next to the building which we could use as a landmark. Hoorah! We were allowed a little bit of time to relax before we were expected to meet outside the main building of the hotel, if we could find it. |
Thankfully we had no trouble as we joined our group mates in the narrow streets of Rome. While we waited for everyone to arrive we had a few incidents where we were forced to squish ourselves against the walls to avoid being hit by cars passing through. Crazy town! This was one location that we were really nervous about going to. Rome is known for its pickpockets, so we were trying to pack light but ready for the "strenuous" walking ahead. It was hot and muggy in Rome as well, although not as hot as Florence due to the cloud cover.
Finally the whole group was assembled. Dimitri met us and passed out four bus tickets for our stay in Rome. We were going to take the bus over to the Colosseum. He instructed us, in the instance that we get separated from him, to look out the window for the Colosseum and when we saw it we would know it was time to get off. He also told us that it was important to swipe in with our tickets to validate them. Okay, we can do this!
Finally a bus arrived and we piled on the already full bus. Naturally only half of us squeezed on. The bus was so packed that there was no way that we could possibly scan our bus tickets. Free ride? I kept my day bag, my empty tripod bag, tucked away underneath my armpit. After some twists and turns in the road we finally got a view of the Colosseum just outside of the bus. Very eagerly we poured out of the bus.
The group of us who arrived first took a moment to stand outside of the bus and catch our breath before we approached a nearby area where we could sit and wait. As we gathered ourselves one of our group members spoke up and told us that his Rick Steves map of Rome has been pickpocketed out of his pants pocket. They had unbuttoned his pocket and taken his map out. Welcome to Rome? Thank goodness it was not anything more important.
It took a few minutes before we saw the remainder of our group approaching. They had caught the next bus in this direction and had gotten off a stop early to walk. It was good to have everyone together once again. We then began to move toward the Colosseum so that we could meet our local guide.
Finally the whole group was assembled. Dimitri met us and passed out four bus tickets for our stay in Rome. We were going to take the bus over to the Colosseum. He instructed us, in the instance that we get separated from him, to look out the window for the Colosseum and when we saw it we would know it was time to get off. He also told us that it was important to swipe in with our tickets to validate them. Okay, we can do this!
Finally a bus arrived and we piled on the already full bus. Naturally only half of us squeezed on. The bus was so packed that there was no way that we could possibly scan our bus tickets. Free ride? I kept my day bag, my empty tripod bag, tucked away underneath my armpit. After some twists and turns in the road we finally got a view of the Colosseum just outside of the bus. Very eagerly we poured out of the bus.
The group of us who arrived first took a moment to stand outside of the bus and catch our breath before we approached a nearby area where we could sit and wait. As we gathered ourselves one of our group members spoke up and told us that his Rick Steves map of Rome has been pickpocketed out of his pants pocket. They had unbuttoned his pocket and taken his map out. Welcome to Rome? Thank goodness it was not anything more important.
It took a few minutes before we saw the remainder of our group approaching. They had caught the next bus in this direction and had gotten off a stop early to walk. It was good to have everyone together once again. We then began to move toward the Colosseum so that we could meet our local guide.
Francesca Caruso was our guide today. She is a very charming woman with an immense amount of knowledge about Rome. Her mother is American and her father is Italian. She has lived in Rome her whole life, however due to having an American mother she was very easy to understand. Something I have always loved is listening to someone talk about something that they are very passionate about. Francesca is very passionate about her home, and it really showed. She also had a very particular voice that made you feel what she was talking about. She shared her passion with us, making us passionate about Rome as well. She also helped to remove some of the apprehension I had felt about Rome, despite the recent pick pocketing.
From the outside the Colosseum did not seem very big, however once we were inside it really opened up. We were lucky to come when we did. The outside of the Colosseum had recently been cleaned. With the vehicles and pollutants we currently have the outside of this stone structure had become blackened. They cleaned the stone carefully and very delicately. They literally used water and toothbrushes. Can you imagine? On the inside, walking the inner corridors we could see what the outside had looked like before the cleaning. What a difference! |
The inside of the Colosseum was awe inspiring. The Colosseum would not have looked like this in ancient times. The platform shows what the entire floor of the Colosseum would have looked like. The maze we see below would have been completely covered up. Many of the areas where stones are missing would have been solid ceilings and seating areas. Additionally we see this structure as bland stone, however ancient Romans loved color. Francesca asked us to take a moment and to close our eyes and imagine the Colosseum in its prime, when it was fresh in 80 A.D. She asked us to imagine elegant statues decorating the halls and bright colors everywhere. This would have been something that people would have (and still do) travel to see. The Colosseum was built as a gift to the people. It could hold 55,000 spectators and had approximately 80 entrances. If the people were good and did not rebel or cause trouble then they would be rewarded with a show or display. There was no cost to get into this grand building in ancient times. The people would also be fed. Therefore it really was a treat.
Francesca mentioned some of the things they had done here for entertainment: gladiator vs gladiator (typically slaves, prisoners of war, or criminals), lions and other exotic animals were also brought in. Some of these creatures fought gladiators while others were just meant to be displayed as something new and exciting. During the hundred day games, which were held by Emperor Titus, over 9,000 animals were slaughtered in the Colosseum. It was sad to stand by the edge, looking out over the Colosseum and imagine everything that happened in this very area. I imagined the number of people who walked these same halls, the amount of blood spilt here. Imagine what the spectators saw from this spot, the blood, the gore. It can all be a little overwhelming to imagine. The Colosseum was wrecked in 847 by an earthquake which devastated the structure. You can see below what the earthquake did. Years later the Colosseum was further stripped for all of its precious marble and other pieces that could be salvaged and used in other buildings around Rome. For example St. Peter's Basilica used parts of the Colosseum in its creation. Some of the walls of the Colosseum have been rebuilt. You just have to look at the texture of the wall to determine whether it is new or original. You might also notice the holes in the walls around the Colosseum. These holes were made when the metal rods used to create support in the walls were salvaged and used elsewhere in the city. Today was May 14th, Danny's Birthday. I had prepared a Happy Birthday poster for him so that we could take pictures with it today. At one of the points in the tour we took a moment to get some pictures while Francesca spoke. She interrupted herself to say, "Oh, and apparently today is Danny's Birthday." She was speaking into our headsets so we explained that Danny is our brother. She followed up saying, "I love these things." |
One of our group members asked our guide if she would mind taking a photo of our group at the Colosseum. She agreed. Of course that means that several people handed her their cameras. My camera was in that mix too. She did a pretty good job, don't you think?
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Once we were done looking through the Colosseum we then moved on to the outside of the great structure. From here we got a closer view of the Arch of Constantine. Francesca pointed out the area on the arch where you can see the remainder of purple coloring the stone. This was another structure that would have been very colorful at the height of the Roman Empire. The arch was built in 315 to celebrate the victory of Constantine over Emperor Maxentius during a civil war at the Battle of Milvian Bridge. The war ended in 312 when Constantine's army defeated the larger army of Emperor Maxentius. He was later awarded this arch as a sign of his victory.
After a close up look at the arch we proceeded on to the Roman Forum, a battlefield of ancient ruins. Here Francesca spoke to us about the history of this area. At one point this was the place to be. Romans would tell their friends, "Meet me at the forum", just as they do today. In the words of Francesca, "It has always been this way, hopefully it will always be this way." Back in Ancient Rome this area would have looked much different than it does now. Once upon a time it was covered with buildings, basilicas, temples, and other monuments which have since fallen. In the prime of the Roman Empire this area would have been scattered with markets and people everywhere. It is beautiful. Imagine with me for a moment, walking through these grassy fields strewn with rocky remains of the Roman Empire. Among the remains you have flowers, primarily poppies, which are in bloom. Meanwhile, in her sweet but sad voice, Francesca tells us the story about the Ides of March and the story of the betrayal of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. It is chilling to picture him coming to the Roman Forum for a meeting, walking where were walking, when he found out that he was being betrayed by his most trusted friends and peers. Another interesting fact that blew my mind is that for a long while this "graveyard" of sorts was covered with feet of dirt over the years. This hid much of what we see today. Excavations revealed this treasure that we had the pleasure to view today. I am very thankful for that. |
After wandering through the Roman Forum we climbed the stairs that led us to the Piazza del Campidoglio which was designed by Michelangelo. It is located upon Capitoline Hill, a hill which houses the heart of Rome. This has been the case since Ancient times. Even today it is an important place which holds the city hall of Rome.
We followed the path down the Cordonata, a large, grand staircase which takes you to the base of Capitoline Hill. From here we walked through a variety of streets, passing by a priest wardrobe shop, and finally we arrived at the Pantheon. This is yet another extraordinary building which is hidden by the surrounding city. This building was completed in 125 AD. The word Pantheon actually refers to the temple's original use, to honor all of the Gods. The Pantheon held the world's largest dome until the Duomo in Florence was built. However, that does not take away from its glory. The dome of the Pantheon holds a circle called the oculus which, historically, was the only source of light in this temple. It is an open air circle too, which meant that during the winter the snow would fall through the hole and create a pile in the middle of the floor. Pretty funny! On a more serious note the remains of Raphael are kept within this building as well as several Italian Kings. It is a beautiful place to be laid to rest. The interior was just as striking, if not more so than the outside of the massive building. After walking through the Pantheon it was time to say arrivederci and grazie to Francesca for her delightful and moving tour of this eternal city. Along with our farewell it was also time for us to go and get something to eat. The restaurant that Dimi (Francesca's name for Dimitri, which also means "tell me" in Italian) planned to have us eat at was just down the street from the Pantheon. Mom, Emily and I had made up our minds earlier that we wanted to eat elsewhere (the meal was somewhat expensive and we wanted to feast upon something else). We made plans with Dimi to meet up an hour or so later so that we could join some of the group on a night walk of Rome (since we did not dare to explore this city alone, especially at night). |
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Finally, after 15 minutes or so of waiting we were joined by the remainder of the group who wanted to go on the night tour of Rome. By this time it was getting dark out and the buildings were illuminated by yellow lights. It was beautiful, it was perfect. With the setting of the sun the temperature dropped and made the outside temperature quite soothing and comfortable.
Our walk started at the Pantheon since we were already there. Dimitri then led us down a nearby street until we ended up at the Palazzo Montecitorio. Another turn down a side street led to the Column of Marcus Aurelius. We were so thankful to have Dimitri leading us around. While many of the attractions of the city are located nearby I would have struggled finding them and then finding my way back to the hotel. Some confusing turns later we arrived at the infamous, scaffold covered Trevi Fountain. It was a disappointment that we could not see the fountain in all of its beauty, however it is important to maintain the fountain for future generations to enjoy as well. I suppose that just means that someday I will have to return to Rome and see it in action! My favorite stop of the night was the Piazza Navona. This piazza was absolutely spectacular. It featured an incredible fountain, the Fountain of the Four Rivers. This piazza has three fountains, although I was in love with this one, thus I hardly noticed the others. This square, built in 86 AD was larger than the stadium of the Colosseum. It was used primarily for sporting events and for festivals. I could see why as the square was crowded with people and merchants who were selling paintings and other various items. I really liked this square and was very thankful that Dimitri had taken us here. Behind the fountain you see the large Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone. Both the Fountain of the Four Rivers and the Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone were commissioned by Pope Innocent X (I like his taste!). However, with an early morning tomorrow and the hour growing late we quickly made our way back through the streets toward our hotel. On the way back we passed by the Statue of Giordano Burano which marks the center of another square close to our hotel. All of these squares were filled with people just relaxing and having a good Thursday night. After admiring the Statue of Giordano Burano we made our way back to our hotel and prepared for bed. Tomorrow we are going to see Vatican City. That should be incredible, but for now it is time to rest and recharge. Tomorrow will also be a heavy walking day. Also the news on the street is that there will be a bus strike tomorrow. Hopefully that won't change our plans too much. I guess we'll have to see! Arrividerci! |